The ceremonial drum echoes in sacred spaces

Every Saturday and Sunday morning, the grounds of the National Historical and Cultural Site Ông Bà Chiểu Tomb (Gia Định Ward) resonate with the rhythmic beats of the trống chầu (ceremonial drum). The sound does not come from grand stage with glittering lights - only a courtyard in front of the main hall. Yet, as artists emerge in magnificent robes and crowns, their faces elaborately painted with sharp lines, they transform the space into a complete stage.

Every movement carries meaning. A slow turn. A distant gaze. A decisive step. All create a unique body language passed down through generations. Hát bội - a traditional theatrical form, once flourished in royal courts and village communal houses. In hát bội, the face doesn’t just identify but serves as a system of symbols. Red signifies loyalty, white represents deceit, blue shows courage, and yellow suggests benevolence. A black face belongs to a simple but blunt person, while a “checkered” face with a long beard denotes a fierce character. Just by looking at the makeup, informed viewers can read a character's personality even before a song begins.

Under the shade of ancient trees, the audience stands in a circle. Elderly people silently clasp their hands behind their backs, young families carrying toddlers, youths record clips on their phones, and curious foreign tourists pause to watch.

Ms Lê Thị Hồng (65 years old) reflected: “As a child, I often followed my father to watch hát bội at the village đình. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen it again. Hearing the drum makes me feel deeply moved”.

For the elderly, Hát Bội is a memory; for the young, a discovery. The new generations don’t just watch; they learn about the plots, participate in Q&A sessions to ask about the meaning of choreography, and experience mask painting. Thanh Trúc, a student at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities, Vietnam National University - Hồ Chí Minh City, said this was her first time watching hát bội live: “I am very surprised. Even though it's performed outdoors in a crowded area, the artists still perform with such passion. I hope hát bội will be brought to even more public spaces”

When museums and book streets become stages

Every weekend morning, the front courtyard of the Hùng King Temple within the Hồ Chí Minh City Museum of History (Bến Nghé Ward) transforms from a quiet sightseeing spot to a space for drums, music, and the performance of hát bội artists.

Right at the entrance, a collection of makeup images serves as a visual introductory lesson to the faces in red, white, blue, and black, which connote character traits, helping the audience understand more before enjoying the performance.

Many surprised tourists visiting the museum stumble upon a performance. Ms Hoàng Hương, from Hưng Yên, shared: “I came to the museum for sightseeing but got to watch hát bội. The costumes, makeup, and every movement are very delicate. Only by watching live can you see how captivating this art is”. Not only domestic tourists but many international visitors also stop to watch. Even if they don't understand the dialogue, the music, visuals, and performance atmosphere draw them in.

Not far away, at the Hồ Chí Minh Post-office (Sài Gòn Ward), hát bội performances frequently occur on special occasions or weekends. Classic excerpts like Hồ Nguyệt Cô hóa cáo or Tề Thiên Đại Thánh introduce the unique features of makeup, dance, and traditional music. Amidst the ancient French-style architecture, the image of artists in traditional costumes creates a fascinating intersection between the past and present.

Meanwhile, at the adjacent Hồ Chí Minh City Book Street (Nguyễn Văn Bình, Sài Gòn Ward) - a familiar cultural rendezvous - hát bội finds new life. Particularly during events like the Book and Reading Culture Festival, the hát bội performance space with traditional music remains open and accessible to the public, especially young people and families.

Thu Trang, a university student in Hồ Chí Minh City, shared: “I often come to the book street to read. Seeing hát bội performed here makes this space feel more special. It makes me want to stop, watch, and learn more”.

No ticket required, no prior preparation needed - just stop and listen. A moment like that enables traditional art to touch viewers in the most natural way.

A unique cultural experience

For over five years, the Hồ Chí Minh City Hát Bội Art Theater has maintained a regular  program to promote hát bội at historical sites like Ông Bà Chiểu Tomb or the Hùng King Temple. According to Mr. Nguyễn Thanh Bình - Head of the Performance Organizing Department - this is a dual strategy: both honoring the value of the historical sites as community cultural destinations and creating opportunities for hát bội to reach modern audiences naturally.

Beyond relics and communal houses (for Kỳ Yên Festial), hát bội now appears at major festivals, walking streets, contemporary art spaces, schools, Bến Thành Market, Bình Tây Market, cruise ships, bars, and programs combined with modern art. Each performance  combines several activities: costume displays, introductions to history, artist interactions, and makeup experiences. Viewers become part of the discovery journey: trying their hand at mask painting, learning basic movements, and understanding the meaning of each scene.

The Hồ Chí Minh City Tourism Development Strategy to 2030 identifies cultural and artistic performances as one of five important tourism product groups. Regarding the promotion of traditional art to tourists, the Hồ Chí Minh City Hát Bội Art Theater has proactively designed programs specifically for international guests, such as photo tours or hát bội tours with flexible durations of 30-60 minutes. These use bilingual (English-Vietnamese) support, reduced dialogue, and  focus on visual performance so viewers can more easily grasp the story.

Today, residents and tourists in Hồ Chí Minh City can encounter hát bội while strolling on weekends, visiting museums, or attending festivals. These performances do not just preserve an art form; they create moments of connection between people and Vietnam’s heritage - vibrant, resilient, and full of hope in the city's cultural life today.

XUAN HUONG

Vietnam Destination Review - Special Issue No. 1 (May 2026)